A clean break with a minimal glue line might not even need to be refinished. Once the glue has set up, then you can deal with the final clean-up and refinishing of the stock as needed. Drilled and counterbored to accept two 12 buttplate screws, available separately. Best to use fresh glue from a small container rather than some from a big container that's been sitting around for some time. Heat briefly in boiling water or microwave to soften the resin so it can be molded to the contour of your stock the shape sets up well once cooled and is extremely durable. While the marine grade epoxies can be a reasonable choice, I've not seen them sold in small quantity kits, where the repair glues are sold in small bottles appropriate for this job. There is nothing holding it in place but the stock. These will use less clamping force than the polyurethane glues to hold the parts in position. When you pull the frame out of the stock, the ejector is a small metal piece that fits on the left side of the frame. Similarly, yellow glues will need appropriate clamping but are less likely to push out a lot of excess glue from the joint line. If the break was clean, the glue line should be very minimal, hardly visible. Could be you'll use c-clamps or bar clamps or clips, or some combination of wraps and clamps to hold the joint together for the glue curing process, but it's essential to have that bond-breaker so that the clamps will come free from the cured glue to minimize the potential for damage to the wood surfaces. Hence the need to wipe off most of the excess when you assemble the pieces and then wrap waxed paper over the glue line as a bond-breaker for the clamping materials. The glue will expand, sometimes rather forcefully and weep out of the glue line. The polyurethane glues are moisture activated, so you must moisten at least one surface to be bonded and then apply the glue to the other surface. Coat the stock repair pins with Acraglas Gel and carefully tap them into place. Force it into any cracks you can’t open up enough to reach into. It's important to follow the directions of the respective glues for best adhesion/bonding strength. Coat both pieces or, if the stock is not completely broken, pry the split open being careful not to make it bigger. If, OTOH, the break is along the grain so that you're gluing long fibers to a long fiber surface, than traditional "yellow glue" such as Titebond yield a stronger bond. If the break is across the grain of the wood so that it's fiber ends to fiber ends, then a POLYURETHANE glue such as Gorilla glue would be the choice. Very much depends upon the wood structure to be glued back together.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |